Lay Shower Tile Like an Expert – Crazy Good Pro Tips

In this post I’ll show you how to lay shower tile. I’ll go over many of the installation strategies I’ve learned over my years as a bathroom remodeling contractor. This comprehensive guide includes everything from mixing thin set mortar and installing your tiles & trim, to installing leveling clips, and grouting, so you can turn your diy project into a profession quality install.

To show you that I mean business, here’s one of the comments I received on this post: “Almost at the finish line with my long-time-coming honeycomb shower and still looking back to your articles as the holy grail. Every time something seemed harder than it should be, I go back and reference your article and, without fail, find the exact advice I needed and forgot.“

This is Steve from Redblock Industries with another actionable shower remodel post. I hope you enjoy it.

Let’s get into it!

Topics

The Basics

• Suitable tiles for shower Walls vs. Floors
• Tools and Materials

Preparing to Lay Shower Tile

• Ensure a Flat Substrate
• Waterproofing

Steps to Lay Shower Tile

• Planning your Layout
• Mixing and Applying Thinset Mortar
• Cutting Tiles
• Installation
• Grouting and Sealing
• Finishing Touches
• Cleaning and Maintenance

Troubleshooting some Common Problems

• How to Fix Loose or Cracked Tiles
• Grout Discoloration and Staining

FAQ’s

Understanding the Basics

Before diving into the details of how to lay shower tile, it’s crucial to grasp the fundamentals.

In order to lay shower tile on the shower wall, you need to start out with a solid, flat framing surface. Then you need to install a rigid tile backer board (cement board or equivalent), and waterproof the whole thing meticulously. Then you can feel confident installing tiles on the shower wall.

Before you lay shower tile on the shower pan, you also need to pay attention to a few important things. It’s critically important to be sure that the shower base has adequate framing support beneath. Any deflection in the substrate can cause tile and grout cracking and loose tiles (de-lamination). Basically a disaster.

If the shower pan is a prefab, you need to carefully waterproof the pan/wall margin. The surface of these prefabs are essentially waterproof so you generally don’t need to worry about the pan itself. You do however, need to be concerned about the drain assembly. The wrong drain assembly, or a shoddy drain installation, can lead to disaster as well. Just make sure you carefully follow the manufacturer’s install instructions.

Types of Tiles Suitable for Shower Walls and Floors

When most people lay shower tile, they’re often confused about what type of tile to install on their shower wall, and shower floor. The most popular choice is Ceramic tile because it’s often the most affordable, and has the widest array of styles. It’s not as moisture resistance as porcelain tiles, but can still be a reliable choice along with a good waterproofing membrane.

Porcelain tiles, a denser relative of ceramic tiles, offer exceptional durability and moisture resistance, making it ideal for both shower walls and floors.

Most Stone Tiles, are not manufactured like ceramic and porcelain tiles. They’re cut out of solid stone slabs to create granite tiles, marble tiles, slate tiles and travertine tiles. Aside from granite, most stone tiles are quite low density so they absorb moisture more readily (see image), so they stain more easily. As such, these tiles need to be sealed regularly after installation with a good stone/grout sealer.

Glass tiles, celebrated for their wide array of colors, unique transparent appearance, and moisture impervious nature, can be a stunning visual element on any shower wall. Since glass is completely non-porous, it also allows for less dependence on under-tile waterproofing membranes when combined with a good pre-sealed grout or epoxy grout.

Essential Tools and Materials to Lay Shower Tile

Tools:

• Measuring tape, spirit level, chalk line
• Utility Knife
• 1/2″ Notched trowel, grout float, rubber mallet
• Spacers/leveling clips, bucket, Grout Sponge
• Wet saw
• Snap Cutter
• Angle Grinder
• Diamond Hole Saw bits

Materials:

• Cement board, Fiber Cement Board, Glass Mat backer board
• Waterproofing membrane, thinset mortar
• Shower tiles, grout, grout sealer
• Tile trim

Preparing to Lay Shower Tile

Flatten the Substrate

Preparing to tile a shower can involve repairing and/or fortifying the wall and floor framing. This step is as crucial as the tile installation itself.

Before I begin to lay shower tile, I always inspect and reinforce the wall and floor framing and replace any damaged, or missing support members. This can be a super easy process, or it could take days of repair and prep.

In addition to ensuring the structural rigidity of the stud wall, it’s also important that the stud plane is flat before installing cement backer board (or equivalent), to avoid one of the biggest tile installation problems – Tile Lippage. This might involve replacing warped studs or planing down the high points of existing studs.

Specifically, lippage occurs when a tile is installed over a raised area (or bump) in the substrate, which raises the tile above the rest of tile plane. When it’s raised above the tiles around it, the edges will not line up with those of the surrounding tiles (see image).

if you’re installing smaller tiles (4″x4″ or smaller mosaics), you might be able to get away with a slightly bumpy substrate (slight undulations in the surface), but you’ll notice things quickly going sideways if you’re installing larger tiles.

There are ways to reduce lippage when you lay shower tile including laying smaller tiles, or establishing a thicker mortar bed, but the only way to truly eliminate lippage is to even out the stud surface prior to backer board installation. In the image, you can see me flattening the stud surface with an electric planer.

Once this is done, you can confidently install your cement backer board over the wall framing. FYI: NEVER use drywall instead of tile backer board on the shower wall framing. Drywall is not designed for showers. It absorbs moisture like a sponge and is not structurally rigid enough to support the tile assembly, even if you install a waterproofing membrane over it.

Waterproofing Membrane Essentials

Waterproofing your shower enclosure is essential to protecting your investment and preventing water damage and mold growth in your walls.

Many contractors will start this process by installing a vapor barrier over the outside facing wall studs before installing the backerboard. Trust me… this is a terrible idea if you’re also planning to install an under-tile waterproofing membrane. Have you ever heard of the water vapor sandwich? This would be it.

A sheet or liquid waterproof membrane over the backer board and shower pan is arguably the most important part of any tile assembly. If you’ve installing cement board (or other cementitious backer board), this is an essential next step.

With both types of membranes, you also need to be sure to reinforce seams and corners. If you’re applying a liquid membrane you need to use only alkali-resistant mesh tape to the corners and apply at least one extra coat of the liquid membrane over the mesh tape. With sheet membranes, be sure to apply the corner and seam tape carefully, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

However, waterproofing is usually not necessary If you’re installing foam shower board shower panels such as those from Wedi (see image). These panels are made of closed-cell foam so they are considered waterproof and they can reduce moisture permeance without the need for an additional membrane.

When installing shower tiles properly you simply cannot skip this important step.

Lay Shower Tile – Step by Step

Step 1: Planning Your Tile Layout

Before you lay shower tile, a well-planned layout is critical. Make sure you spend some time on this or you’ll definitely regret it later.

Floor Tiles:

When planning to lay shower tile, you should always consider doing the shower floor tile installation first. This means that you should tile the floor (and grout if possible) before beginning to lay any wall tile. This way, the perimeter floor tile cuts are covered by the wall tiles, and it offers an extra measure of protection against water getting under the floor tile to the substrate.

The floor tile layout won’t be that important if you’re installing smaller mosaics, because it’s often less important to create symmetry with these smaller tiles. You do however, have to pay attention to how the mosaics are oriented around the drain. Spend some time on this. Measure out & cut these tiles first. Then dry fit them to make sure they’re perfect before mixing any mortar. Since the drain is always in plain view, any sloppy tile cuts here will stand out like a sore thumb.

With larger tiles however, planning the layout is extremely important because symmetry is your goal here (especially around the drain and perimeter). So spend some time measuring the pan and laying out your tiles to see how best to orient your tiles. (see 2nd image).

To prepare for setting the wall tiles, I usually cover the tiled shower base with some brown Rosin Paper to protect it.

Wall Tiles:

Before laying shower wall tile, I always start by measuring the height and width of each shower wall to figure out how many wall tiles will fit on each wall without creating what I call the “sliver cuts”. These are the awkward thin tile cuts that you end up with when you neglect to plan out the arrangement of tiles on the wall before starting to lay them.

Planning means choosing the tiles your going to use (especially important if they have a repeating pattern), cutting them, and numbering them. In other words, don’t try to do this job on the fly (see image).

Use a level and a straight edge (or chalk line) to mark some horizontal lines across each wall to be tiled. I usually space these lines about 2 feet apart but exact spacing is not important. You only use these H lines as a reference, to ensure that your top row of tiles is level and straight relative to your lines.

Step 2: Mixing and Applying Thinset Mortar

First off, I would recommend that you stay away from any premixed tile mortar, mastic or tile adhesive. These products are great for decorative tile work like your kitchen backsplash, but generally not a good idea for structural tile installations like the shower floor and shower wall.

I usually prefer to use modified thinset rather than unmodified. Modified is simply a mortar that contains polymers (plastics), in addition to the cement and sand in the unmodified version. The biggest benefit of polymer modified mortars is that they generally have a longer pot life (longer time in bucket) than unmodified mortar. They’re also easier to work with on vertical surfaces because they’re more sticky, with less slumping. There are many good thinsets out there, but I often use Schluter All-Set, simply because it’s the mortar that Schluter Systems created for use under their Kerdi sheet waterproofing membranes.

I always pay close attention to mortar consistency when I lay shower tile. Although most people (including professionals) don’t seem all that worried about thinset mortar thickness & consistency, it’s actually very important. Thinset that’s too thick or too thin can compromise tile bonding and reduce compression strength.

The best way to get the perfect mortar consistency is to watch the top ripples while mixing. As you move your mixing paddle up near the mortar surface, the mortar will tear or fracture on the surface if it’s too thick. Start mixing your mortar with about 1 cup less water than is recommended on the bag, and you will see this in action.

Then add about 1/4 cup incrementally, mixing thoroughly in-between. Stop adding water when you see the mortar ridges change from tearing, to flowing smoothly over the mixing paddle as you bring it close to the surface. This should give you the perfect thinset consistency.

I would recommend that you only mix enough mortar to use the entire amount within 2-3 hours (if it’s modified). If it’s cool and rainy outside, I find that pot life can be extended by as much as 1 hour, but this will vary depending on your elevation and climate. Regardless, you should always remix your thin set periodically to make sure it stays as fluid as possible.

Do not add more water to extend the working time when it starts to stiffen up. I know how tempting it can be to add just a tiny bit of extra water to the bucket when your mortar is getting a bit stiff and you’re almost finished. DON’T DO IT! Dispose of it and mix some more instead. You will compromise bond strength and compression strength of you ignore this rule.

Trowel:

I mostly prefer to use a 1/2″ square notch trowel (see image) when I’m laying one foot square tiles or larger. The larger notch size allows for a little more flexibility, especially when installing on an uneven substrate. As I mentioned above, an uneven substrate is going to cause tile lippage problems, so a little deeper mortar bed will allow you to better match the tile edges even over an uneven surface. For tiles under 1 foot square, I will use a 1/4″ x 3/8″ or 1/4″ x 1/4″ trowel. For mosaics, I usually use a 1/16″ V-notch.

Spreading Thinset:

Using the flat side of a notched trowel, spread a layer of thinset mortar onto the prepared substrate to a thickness roughly matching the notch depth of your trowel (1/2″ deep for 1/2″ notched trowel), covering a small section at a time. Avoid spreading too much mortar at once, as it will dry out before you notch it and embed the tiles.

Then with the notched side of the trowel angled roughly 45 degrees to the surface, sweep your trowel across the thinset in a single direction. This allows the raised areas of mortar to collapse and spread over the substrate and the back of the tile. If the trowel lines change direction under your tile, air between the notches may not escape. With air is trapped under your tile, mortar lines won’t collapse fully, which reduces thinset coverage.

Another important step is to back-butter your tiles before setting it into place, especially if you’re installing lower density ceramic tiles. Back buttering is simply applying a thin scratch coat of fresh mortar to the back, before setting it into place.

Many types of tiles can extract water out of the mortar after setting, so there’s always a risk of a poor tile adhesion, especially if the mortar has skimmed over. So make sure you ALWAYS back-butter your tiles! If the tiles are too large to handle, you can use a back-buttering tool called Back Butter Buddy. It makes back-buttering your tiles a little easier and it’s available at most tiling wholesalers or online.

Step 3: Cutting Tiles

To lay shower tile correctly, and to create a beautiful and satisfying result, you need to cut your tiles as accurately and smoothly as possible.

To cut tiles, I would recommend that you get yourself a wet saw and a good snap cutter. You can probably get away with just a wet saw with a good diamond cutting blade (see materials list), but it’s really best to have both, especially when you’re cutting larger tiles. The wet saw just takes too long to make long cuts, and you’re always at risk of breaking a tile before, during, and after cutting.

And for cutting round holes for valve bodies, shower heads, etc., you really need an angle grinder with a set of diamond hole saw bits (see my materials list). This tool takes a bit of getting used to, but it’s essential for fast and efficient hole cutting into porcelain or ceramic tiles. And don’t use a tile nipper – too many broken tiles. Best to use your angle grinder (with diamond hole saw bits) for curved cuts and holes, or you can use your wet saw for curves on outside edges.

Before I lay shower tile on the shower pan, I cut, dry fit, and number all of them as a general rule, especially if they are larger than 4″. You can probably get away with a more “on the fly” cutting strategy if you’re installing these smaller tiles, but you should at least cut, dry fit, and number the tiles around the drain perimeter, regardless of the tile size. This area needs to be planned, cut and installed carefully if you want a happy, low stress, and satisfying shower tile installation.

Before I lay shower tile on the wall, I always cut, dry fit, and number, at least the entire bottom row before mixing any mortar. This can be a bit awkward, but I believe it’s essential to prepare properly for the rest of the wall tile installation. Your goal is to create a perfectly flat (and level) first row of tiles, so that all the rest of your tile rows will line up well.

To do this, you’ll need to prepare some thin, waterproof shims to place at various locations under these tiles to correct for variations in the shower base tile below (see installation section below).

My go-to shims are melamine countertop samples from my local home store. I usually keep these on hand when my clients prefer an economical countertop (bench top) option for their washroom sink cabinet. I usually just grab a few dozen of these free samples from my local home store. You’ll find them in the kitchen cabinet section right next to the kitchen displays. For thinner shims, I use spent utility knife blades.

Because you will likely be laying the back wall tiles first (see installation section below), your cuts don’t have to be very smooth or accurate here (see image). It also means that your cut edges will end up on the side wall where they’re a little more concealed, just in case your cuts are less than perfect. Get it?

When the back wall tiles are done you can measure and pre-cut the side wall tiles. And because your tile trim is already in place (see install info below), and the back wall tile is already installed, these rows will be easy to measure and cut to length.

Step 4: Laying Tile in Bathroom Shower

a. Setting Shower Tile Flooring

As I mentioned earlier, when I lay shower tile I always do the shower floor tile installation first because this provides a solid and level foundation for the wall tile installation. Even better…grout the shower base tiles as well, prior to laying wall tiles. The reason for this is simply because water running down the wall tile will always settle at the surface of your shower pan tiles, rather than moving down below the shower pan surface.

The technique for setting tiles on the shower floor will vary depending on the size of tiles you choose. If you choose smaller mosaic tiles, the process is a bit easier because symmetry is not important. But as I mentioned earlier, you’ll need to focus on setting the tiles around the drain very carefully. The perimeter tiles will not need to be as accurately cut because they’ll be covered by the wall tiles after it’s installed.

Tile cutting, and setting procedure for shower floor tiles is the same in most ways as shower wall tiles. The big difference is in planning and setting the first row of wall tiles. This can take a fair bit of time and cause a bit of frustration when you do it the first time. In this sense, floor tiling is a fair bit easier.

b. Shower Curb:

When installing tiles in a bathroom shower, shower curb tiling is always one of the bigger challenges for the diy shower tile installer (unless you’re installing a curbless shower, that is). It’s only a small part of your tiling project, but it’s a very exposed part, so your tiling expertise (or lack thereof) is right up front for all to see.

The challenge of shower curb tiling is its two inside, and two outside corners. The outside corners especially, require very careful cutting and tile edge trim installation that some DIYers are not confident with. There are a few good shower curb tile ideas out there, but here’s one technique that that I think is the very best….

Install a solid stone cap on the top of the curb! You can install a solid marble, granite, or quartz slab, instead of installing tile! Afterwards, you can decide whether to use the same stone for the sides of the curb, or simply lay tiles there. Either way, it’s a lot easier than tiling the whole curb.

Not only does this strategy allow you to skip some difficult curb tiling, but it also allows you to carry a fancy design element from the bathroom vanity top, over to the shower area.

c. Laying Shower Wall Tile

With your shower wall prepped, and your tile layout completed, it’s time to start laying shower wall tile. When I lay shower tile on the wall, I always recommend using a tile leveling system to reduce tile lippage, and to simply make the job a little easier and less stressful. These clips serve as both tile spacers and lippage reducers. I use these clips for every one of my tiling jobs (see image).

I also recommend that you install the vertical pieces of tile edge trim before you start installing the side wall tiles. If you’ve planned your wall tile layout carefully, and dry fitted some tiles beforehand, you’ll will pretty much know exactly where your tile cuts will be on the back wall. But installing the vertical trim pieces on the side walls will also allow you to determine your exact tile cuts on these walls as well.

Fixing your tile trim in place provides you with a firm, finished vertical edge to push your tiles up against so your tiles don’t drift out of plumb as you move up the wall. I usually place my trim 1″- 4″ (horizontally) beyond the tub edge (or shower pan edge), but this is totally up to you as long it’s beyond the tub or shower pan edge. Draw a vertical pencil line on both side walls of your shower enclosure where you’ve chosen to mount your trims. Then simply glue them in place using a tiny amount of polyurethane adhesive every 6″ or so along the trim.

After your trim is firmly in place, and all your shims are prepared for leveling your first row, you can start laying the back wall tile.

Start with laying the back wall tiles first. I recommend this strategy because the R & L edges of all the rows will be covered by the side wall tiles when they’re installed. As I mentioned earlier, this means that your cuts don’t need to be particularly smooth or accurate (see image in the tile cutting section above). It also means that your exposed cut edges will end up on the side wall where they’re not as easy to see.

The first row is the most important to ensure that all your rows are level and straight. As I mentioned earlier, you’ll need to gather some waterproof shims to place under your first row tiles to accomplish this (see image).

Spread your mortar in preparation to set your bottom row. It won’t take long for you to get a feel for how much mortar to spread, but the goal is not to spread too much so it skims over (dries) before you apply your tiles. If it’s slightly dry to the touch, you need to remove it, and remix back into the mortar bucket.

Remember to back butter each tile before setting them into the mortar. Set your first row tiles gently into the mortar bed (without twisting), ensuring that the mortar ridges collapse but not too much to cause thinset to spew out of your grout lines. Although twisting the tile after setting is a common suggestion among tiling pros, it assumes that you’re not back-buttering (BB) your tiles. If you BB your tiles, you’ll already have the perfect mortar bond so twisting is pointless, and can actually trap air under the tile.

Press each tile into place until its surface is approximately flush with the surrounding tiles, separating them with leveling clips/spacers, and place your leveling shims under each of these first row tiles where appropriate. Don’t forget to place your leveling clips after you set each tile. These clips slide in under each tile edge so you can’t put them in later!

As you progress setting the first row you can insert the leveling wedges in place, but only about 3/4 the way in. Pushing them all the way into their clips will bind the tiles together too much at this stage. You still want the tiles to move independently so you can tighten up the grout lines.

As soon as the entire row is set, check for level (against your H reference lines), and place a plastic or wooden spacer at the L side of your row, pressed up against the L side wall. You can now use a prying tool on the R side of the row to tighten the tiles up against the leveling clips/spacers to tighten up the grout line spaces.

Then fix all the leveling wedges in place fully. Check for any tile lippage and adjust accordingly. A rubber mallet is very useful at this stage because some light hammering can re-liquify the mortar slightly to allow the leveling clips to do their job. Check for level once again, and readjust the tiles with your prying tool if the grout lines need tightening once again.

After this row is complete, the rest will go like stink, since this row is perfectly level and flat. 😆 That’s the way to lay shower tile!

Step 6: Grouting and Sealing Tiles

After the thinset has cured for at least 24 hours, it’s time to fill the grout lines.

You can choose to mix your own grout if you prefer, but I prefer to use a premixed, pre-sealed grout called Mapei Flexcolor CQ when I lay shower tile. I’ve been using this grout on all my shower tiling projects for many years now, and I really love it.

Application of this grout is similar but not exactly the same as a standard sanded or un-sanded grout. After scooping up some grout, sweep the grout float over the tile surface diagonally across the grout lines in both directions, with the float at a 45 degree angle to the surface just as you would with any other grout.

The difference with this pre-sealed grout is that you should only grout a few square feet at a time, or about 5-10 minutes of grouting time (depending on ambient temp.) before cleaning with a sponge and water. With Flexcolor CQ, you must use only the rigid square sponge that’s included with the grout, and you must be very careful to apply minimal pressure.

Make several passes, cleaning the sponge regularly in between, until any resistant material (grit) is removed from the face of the tiles. Do not worry about removing the “cloud” of solvent left on the surface at this stage.

When the grouting and initial cleaning is complete, thoroughly rinse out your sponge and fill a new clean bucket of water. Use this to clean the entire grouted surface again to reduce the solvent haze from the tile surface. You should be prepared to clean the tile surface one more time after the grout lines have set up a bit more (2-3 hours depending on ambient temp.). A moist microfiber rag does a great job to clean off this final haze.

If you decide not to use a pre-sealed grout, sealing the grout lines is an important next step. You’ll want to seal your grout lines every two years, even if you’re using a very good quality sealer. I recommend either Stonetech Bulletproof or Drytreat Stain Proof sealers. They are both great.

Finishing Touches

In-Grout Shower Storage:

As a remodel professional, I constantly ran into clients that are desperate for more storage in their showers. A shower niche (or two) can be a great way to achieve this, but you need to plan this installation long before you think about laying shower tile. But even with a lot of pre-planning, some people decide that they prefer not to install a shower niche because they don’t like the look, or the idea of a recess in their shower wall.

For these people, in-grout shower shelves are the ideal solution, specifically, an in-grout corner shower shelf (see image). You can install these before grouting, or after the tiling and grouting is complete. If you want more info on different types of shower storage, please check out my shower shelves post.

Caulking the Corners:

Caulking the vertical corners between adjacent walls, and the horizontal corners at the shower pan/ wall margin, is essential to maintaining water tightness in your shower. Even if you have checked all the boxes and installed a under-tile waterproofing membrane, you still need to make sure that water doesn’t get behind your tiles.

Start with a good quality 100% silicon sealer like Mapei Mapesil T and a silicon shaping tool. I recommend using the tool because spreading silicon in the corners may sound easy, but its not. I’ve seen many good DIY tile installations ruined by a sloppy silicon application.

Cleaning and Maintenance Tips

After you lay shower tile, maintaining the appearance and durability of your tiled shower requires regular cleaning and simple maintenance. After each shower, consider wiping down the tiles with a squeegee or microfiber rag to remove excess water and prevent soap scum and mineral buildup.

For routine cleaning, a mild dish soap solution and a soft-bristled brush works great. For heavier cleaning jobs, I always recommend using baking soda (yes, baking soda) or OxiClean powder, dissolved in warm water. OxiClean kills bacteria and removes mildew stains as well as bleach does, but doesn’t stink like bleach. It’s also safe to use on metal trims and fixtures unlike bleach, which over time, basically destroys everything it touches.

Troubleshooting some Common Problems

Even with careful planning, DIY tiling projects might present unexpected challenges when you lay shower tile. Loose tiles, often resulting from inadequate adhesive application, can often be fixed by removing the loose tile, applying fresh adhesive, and resetting the tile in place.

Grout discoloration, another common tiling woe, can stem from factors like improper sealing, harsh cleaning agents, or excessive moisture. Addressing this involves re-grouting or deep cleaning the affected areas, followed by the application of a high-quality grout sealer to prevent future staining.

How to Fix Loose or Cracked Tiles

If you’ve installed your tiles correctly, you should never see any loose or cracked tiles in your shower. But if you’re doing some maintenance on an existing shower, you can replace any loose tiles if you are careful. First step is to carefully remove the grout surrounding the tile using a grout saw and/or utility knife.

Next, tap the tile carefully but firmly on it’s surface with a hammer to crack it in several places. Avoid hammering in the same place – your objective here is not to smash it to bits because you risk damaging the membrane and backer board behind it.This is a careful process, so do not attempt if you’re not confident you can pull it off.

After the tile shows several cracks, gently pry up the pieces with a small pry bar. DO NOT pry against the adjacent tiles because you will chip or break them. Once all the bits of tile are removed, scrape any old mortar from the substrate using a chisel or putty knife.

Mix a small batch of fresh thinset, and apply a layer to the back of the tile using the appropriate notched trowel. You must also wet the substrate adequately with a thin layer of fresh thinset to ensure a good bond. Then press your new tile firmly back into place, ensuring it’s level with the surrounding tiles. Allow the mortar to cure completely , then re-grout.

Avoiding Grout Discoloration and Staining

After you lay shower tile, preventing grout discoloration and staining is crucial for maintaining a fresh and pristine look in your tiled shower. One of the most effective strategies is grouting with a pre-sealed grout.

If you’ve installed a regular sanded or non-sanded grout, you’ll need to seal the grout lines right after installation (after the grout fully cures). Grout sealers create a protective barrier, repelling moisture and stains. I always use one of these two grout sealers (both are fantastic): Stonetech Bulletproof or Drytreat Stain Proof.

Additionally, employing a gentle touch during cleaning is essential (using the method in the Cleaning section above). Harsh chemicals like bleach, and abrasive cleaners, can strip away the grout sealer and actually stain and/or erode the grout, leading to more discoloration and damage.

FAQ’s

Where should you start when tiling a shower?

You should lay your shower tile first on the shower floor (or pan). This creates a waterproof foundation where all the water from the wall can settle, then flow down towards the drain without any risk of getting under your tile and to the substrate.

Can I tile over existing shower tiles?

Tiling over existing shower tiles is not ideal, but it is possible. Removing the old tile is always best because it allows you to assess the condition of the substrate, and ensure proper waterproofing. However, if you’re confident with the integrity of the substrate, products like Mapei Eco Prim Grip can do the job.

How long does it take for shower tiles to set before using the shower?

It’s essential to allow ample drying time for both the thinset mortar and the grout before subjecting your newly tiled shower to water. Wait at least 24-48 hours for the thinset to cure, and follow the grout manufacturer’s recommended drying time, typically another 24-72 hours.

What is the best grout to use in a shower?

Epoxy grout or pre-sealed grout are by far the best, due to their exceptional waterproofing qualities and resistance to mold and mildew growth. They are also more durable and stain-resistant than traditional cement-based grouts, making them an excellent choice for showers.

How do I prevent mold and mildew in my tiled shower?

Preventing mold and mildew growth in your tiled shower involves a multi-pronged approach. Installing a pre-sealed or epoxy grout can largely prevent mold & mildew in the grout lines. It can also be reduced with good ventilation, by removing excess water after every use (with a squeegee or microfiber rag), and by cleaning regularly with some liquid dish soap diluted in a bucket of water.

Conclusion

Since laying shower tile is such an important part of every shower remodel, I thought it was important to create a comprehensive shower tiling post. I really hope that I’ve accomplished that, and you were able to get some useful information and strategies from it.

I remember what it’s like not having any idea how to approach my first tiling job ………oh so long ago 🙁 , and I’m determined to help you guys avoid some of the struggles I went through. So please let me know what you think of my how to lay shower tile post in the comments below, and please ask me any questions you like.

Good Luck with your project!