It’s truly frightening how many shower niche problems can happen in a typical shower remodel, especially if your contractor is building you a custom niche.
But even if you’re planning to go the much safer route and install a pre-manufactured tiling niche or finished niche, you still must adhere to a few simple rules and procedures.
Following this advice could save you the nightmare and expense of moisture and mold growth in your walls, and tearing out your dream shower to do the job correctly a second time.
This is Steve from SKG Renovations with a few tips you must know to avoid the 5 BIG shower niche problems during your next shower remodel.
To show what you can expect from this post, here’s what one of my commenters had this to say:
“Hi, Steve! What a wealth of information! Wish we would have known some of this 5 years ago when we had our bathrooms “professionally” remodeled.”
So enough about me… 😉, lets get into it!
The 7 BIG Problems:
Skipping the Waterproofing Membrane
Installing Niche without Waterproofing Flange – Prefab
Installing a Horizontal Niche
Installing Niche in an Outside Wall
No Slope at Bottom of Niche
Installing Niche in the “Splash Zone”
Installing the Wrong Shower Niche Shelf
Skipping the Waterproofing Membrane – Custom Niche
If you plan to install a custom niche into your shower wall, and you want to avoid one of the biggest shower niche problems, you must make sure that you or your contractor doesn’t forget the waterproofing step.
When a custom niche is built well, it can look very sturdy, solid and deceptively waterproof. This is an assumption made far too often when niches are framed into the shower wall. But no matter how tight the joints may look in a newly constructed niche, they will not keep water from penetrating the bottom and the back of the niche, and running into the stud cavity, if it’s not properly waterproofed.
You may be thinking that a leak like this seems unlikely if the niche is properly tiled & grouted after construction, and you would be right… for awhile. The constant water exposure and regular temperature changes makes the shower environment quite unforgiving. These environmental stresses cause all parts of the tile assembly to move slightly, mostly by expansion and contraction.
Without a waterproofing membrane, this movement almost always causes grout line cracking in your tiled niche. It usually starts out as very fine cracks at the corners that can’t easily be seen. But even the smallest cracks will allow water to penetrate the bottom of the niche, moving easily through the cement backerboard seams and thinset mortar, to the framing beneath.
The rest you can imagine; moisture in the walls, which leads to mold, dry rot, etc.………. something you can easily avoid. Applying the correct waterproofing materials (sheet or liquid membrane), will ensure that you won’t have any of these shower niche problems.
More info on shower waterproofing: Shower Membrane Waterproofing – The Definitive Guide
Installing Niche without Waterproofing Flange – Prefab Niche
Another one of the BIG shower niche problems is installing a niche that DOES NOT have an integrated waterproofing membrane bonding flange. These “Retrofit” style shower niches have become particularly popular over the past few years because of the apparent ease of installation. An example of one of these would be the finished stainless steel niches like this one:
Retrofit SS Niche from Amazon
The problem with this type of niche is that it’s installed after the wall tile has already been installed and grouted, so it does not integrate with the waterproofing membrane.
During a shower remodel, a hole is cut into the tile backer board for the niche, the wall tile and grout is installed around the niche hole so the retrofit niche can later be inserted into it. The niche is then inserted into the hole and the niche’s outer flange is simply pressed against the tile with a bead of silicon to complete the installation. This tiny silicon bead is the only defense against water running into the wall cavity. In my opinion, it’s not worth the risk.
The Correct Niche with Waterproofing Flange
Ad: The above image is an Affiliate link
The first pic shows a “finished” niche. This unit is made from sheet stainless steel with a brushed finish so it does not require tiling. The membrane bonding flange mounts on the backerboard surface with screws, and the waterproofing membrane is attached to the top surface of this flange with adhesive (as seen in the above image).
The other pic shows is a tile-ready foam niche that has a 1/2″ thick foam perimeter flange that also serves as a mounting and a waterproofing flange similar to the stainless steel niche. The difference is that the flange must be attached to the framing instead of the backer board surface, so it’s 1/2″ thick flange can be flush with the 1/2″ thick tile backer board that surrounds it. Although prefab shower niches have built-in waterproofing, the shower wall waterproofing membrane still must adhere to the flange in order to maintain the integrity of the entire wall assembly.
See more info on shower waterproofing: Shower Membrane Waterproofing – The Definitive Guide
Installing a Horizontal Tile Shower Niche
Another BIG one among shower niche problems, is the construction of a custom horizontal tiled niche that compromises the structural integrity of the shower wall.
If you’re considering a horizontal shower niche installation in your new remodel project, you’ve likely seen many examples of these ultra wide horizontal shower niches. These shower niches are the epitome of opulence, sometimes spanning the entire width of the shower, and offering a huge area for storage (see image).
There is a way to install these shower niches correctly and safely, but unfortunately many contractors fail to accomplish this.
Most horizontal shower niches are built into the back shower wall; usually the longest, and most flexible wall in your shower surround. By “flexible”, I mean the wall that will deflect the most if someone was to fall against it.
Sometimes this is a bearing wall that the structural integrity of your home depends on, and sometimes it’s not. Either way, cutting a horizontal swath out the structural members of this wall to make room for a niche is a problem.
Most decent contractors will say that applying the correct structural framing around the niche will adequately fortify the structure. The problem is that these measures mostly address structural stresses applied from above, but do not often address the increased flexibility (reduction in rigidity) caused by cutting out the vertical framing.
The integrity of a tiled assembly requires significant rigidity in this wall to reduce the chance of grout cracking, tile delamination, and failure of the waterproofing membrane. Some contractors do not even install the minimal surrounding structure required, which profoundly compromises the wall’s structural rigidity.
A Better Horizontal Niche Layout
If your new horizontal niche will span more than a couple of wall studs, the safest way to build it is to construct a new wall adjacent to, where the niche will be installed.
This new wall allows you to build / install your custom niche with only minimal support above the new niche opening because the entire wall is anchored to the stud wall behind it. Super solid, super rigid, and super safe, because the original wall structure remains completely intact.
Another huge benefit of this parallel wall design is that it gives you the green light to install your niche into an exterior wall, because the insulation layer in the your exterior wall will be left undisturbed. This is the only way that you can insulate properly behind your niche when installing into an exterior wall – the only way to save the homeowner from the HUGE problems of water condensation behind their niche. Of course you can also further increase the insulation by installing a 1/2″ layer of foam board insulation directly behind the niche, in your new wall. You can never have too much insulation in an exterior wall!
Another great benefit of this strategy is that you won’t need to move any plumbing or utilities that happen to run through the exterior wall. The only disadvantage of this method would be the slight reduction in your shower floor space, but you can always consider extending the shower into the bathroom by 3 1/2″, as long as you have the room.
In my opinion, a typical structural header and jack stud assembly can still be acceptable in some circumstances if the wall is non-structural, but this assembly must be built flawlessly. Nothing is safer that the parallel wall design I mentioned above.
Talk to your contractor about it, because it’s extremely important that you avoid this BIG shower niche problem.
If you’re interested in a custom vertical shower niche, and you’d like to know how to build it the right way, check out my how to build a shower niche post.
Installation Niche in an Outside Wall
This is also one of the BIG shower niche problems because water vapor can easily condense behind your niche if you don’t do this install correctly. This is a really big deal.
In general, it’s always the best idea to mount / build your tiled or finished niche in a wall that is not an outside facing wall.
The problem is that the shower environment is a very moist one, and some some water vapor will always make it into the stud cavity through the wall tile, your tile backer board, and often through your tiled niche.
How much water vapor will move into the stud wall is entirely dependent on whether or not a waterproofing membrane has been installed on the shower wall and how well your niche resists water vapor penetration. The permeability of your niche will vary greatly, depending on the type of shower niche you decide to build / install, and the waterproofing strategy, of course.
Worth the Risk?
With this vapor penetration problem in mind you can probably see why it’s risky to install your tile niche into the exterior wall of your master bath.
In most older homes, the stud cavity is only 3 1/2″ thick and the comfort of your home often depends on this space being filled with insulation. Even in a relatively mild climate, the colder months can result in a vast difference in temperature from inside to outside. Only a small temperature differential can cause the water vapor in the shower wall to condense on the inside of the wall, even with a good vapor retarder attached.
Even without a shower niche, this can easily occur within a 3 1/2″ stud wall in the colder months, especially if there’s no waterproofing membrane on the shower wall. With a niche taking up most of the space in a 3 1/2″ stud cavity, moisture condensation in the wall cavity is virtually guaranteed if the temperature drops a few degrees outside compared to inside.
Of course, none of this will necessarily occur if the wall and niche are properly waterproofed, and there is enough space behind the niche for adequate insulation.
Needless to say, there is a complex series of factors to consider like stud wall thickness, local climate, choice of waterproofing membrane, and the quality and thickness of the wall insulation.
In other words, you should definitely ask a trusted local contractor before you decide to build a niche into an exterior wall to avoid this potential shower niche installation problem.
No Slope at the Bottom of Niche
This is one of the most common shower niche problems in many tiled niches.
Since the framing contractor will not likely slant the bottom of your niche outwards (it’s just not what framers do), then it will be up to your tiling contractor to make sure the tile(s) at the bottom of your niche are slanted outwards.
The same goes for prefab niches. The bottom of most of these niches are usually not slanted outwards. It is up to the tiling contractor to do this when installing a prefab. Many Tiling contractors make this mistake because they believe that all prefabricated niches are made this way.
This is a pretty big deal because if water pools at the back of your niche and never dries between showerings, it’s just a matter of time before this water leaks through the back of the niche and into the framing. I’ve even seen this occur when a sheet waterproofing membrane has been installed beneath then tiles. If the membrane corners are not attached carefully, and all excess thinset mortar is not removed, water can eventually penetrate the seam via capillary flow.
Installing Niche in the Splash Zone
Another one of the BIG shower niche problems is installing your shower niche in what I call the “Splash Zone”. This is basically the shower head side of the shower. The closer to the shower head your niche is installed, the more water will splash into the niche opening, simply because it’s where you stand and rinse. This is quite annoying for some people because their bar soap gets waterlogged and melts away, but it also makes selecting items more difficult because you must stand in the water stream to select them.
Although this problem seems to be quite intuitive and easy to avoid, I’ve talked with many homeowners that have neglected to consider this when building their dream shower, only to realize it later when it’s too late.
Installing the Wrong Shower Niche Shelf
I consider this to be one of the BIG shower niche problems because as a bathroom remodel contractor, I hear a lot of people express regret about choosing the wrong niche shelf to store their shower products in their tiled niche.
Usually the cheapest shelf option is a tiled shelf constructed with wood framing (if a custom niche) or 2″ inch thick foam board (see below).
This is often a the most regrettable shelf option because it’s difficult to clean (especially the corners), and the grout lines stain and get moldy.
Another alternative is the glass shelf. A bit more expensive for the material but it’s usually the “go to” shelf alternative for most tiled niches. These shelves are so popular because they’re subtle, modern looking, and considered attractive by most.
However, a few months after installing glass shelves for my clients (see image), they often say that it’s really hard to keep clean. And some say that they hate that their bar soap slips away so easily.
A Better Shower Shelf Option?
The most practical and coolest niche shelf (in my opinion) is the stainless steel niche shelf. In fact I thought it was so great that I decided to design one myself (see image). I created this shelf to solve all the practical and aesthetic issues my clients complained about over the years. And I think I managed to create not only a practical storage space for your bottles of shampoo, bars of soap, body wash, shaving cream, etc., but also a stylish addition to any shower.
If you’re interested in learning more about shower shelves, please check out my shower niche shelf post.
So… to summarize:
What are the 7 BIG shower Niche problems?
Skipping the Waterproofing in your custom niche, Installing a Prefab Niche without a Waterproofing Flange, Installing a Horizontal Niche, Installing a Niche in an Outside Wall, Not Sloping the Bottom of Niche, Installing the Wrong Niche Shelf.
Wrap Up
Installing a shower niche can be a deceptively complicated and risky endeavor, but it is possible to avoid the 7 BIG shower niche install problems.
If you need help with niche placement and design, feel free to check out my Shower Niche Planning, and 9 Great New Shower Shelf Options posts.
Good luck with your new shower remodel project, AND enjoy your new shower niche!
Please leave a comment below if you’d like to ask any specific questions about niche installation. I’m happy to help!
This post is for information purposes only and should NOT be interpreted as professional advice. You should always consult a licensed local contractor before undertaking any remodeling work in your home. Click here for my full Personal / Professional Disclosure.
Hi Hyaleah,
It sounds like you put a lot of time and effort into your shower remodel project, especially your niche.
There’s nothing like the satisfaction of doing a job correctly! Am I right?
Steve
I’m doing a shower at the moment. put up cement board and Regard to the ceiling. The niche was on the outside wall but I built a second wall against it to give me the depth of the niche without disturbing the existing outer wall insulation, except for where I added another 2×4 for the rear wall of the niche for added support. I ended up putting in additional studs in all the walls because the walls in this closet turned shower had the most impractical stud spacing, nothing below 18″ on center, some as high as 26″. Modern construction at it’s best. 🙁
Hi Shawn,
Congrats! Sounds like it was a fun project.
It’s great to hear that you were not deterred by the sometimes intimidating prospect of tackling your own bathroom remodel project. It seems like you also felt some pride and satisfaction from your accomplishment… as you should.
I think it would be reasonable for you to ask them to replace the frameless glass panel and door if it bothers you. It seems like you’re being quite forgiving of the mistake that they made (I agree with your evaluation, btw).
Enjoy your new bathroom!
Steve
Hi Steve, Great advice to everyone. I recently remodelled my wife’s retreat bath using a Schluter pre-fabricated niche and it saved so much time and hassle. I saved and reglazed the tub and it looks (performs) wonderful. I spent 3 months doing the project, three different kinds of marble two fans (to exhaust better as she like it hot and uses lots of product). It’s was a perfect job except when the frameless glass was installed, the installers drilled the glass for the towel bar and handle at a whopping 56″ above the ground. The miscalculated using measurement for a walk in shower I believe, rather than glass on tub. They claim 56″ height is industry standard. I believe industry standard height is 44-48″? Also a number of the hinge screws were not flush but angled and they claimed it was to give it strength. I am an engineer and have never heard such a thing. Straight, flush screws are needed to keep the hinge from torquing the tile and screws. Their angled screws into marble caused the front edge of the hinge to pull away (walk back from the tile face). Other than that, it has been a fun project?
Hi Ruxandra,
Thank you for your comment!
I’m not sure I understand your situation exactly, but what matters most is the distance between the back of the niche and the outside wall sheeting. I would recommend at least 3 1/2″ of space behind the niche if you’re insulating the wall with fiberglass. If this gap is any smaller, you should surround the niche body with spray foam. This will improve the R-value behind the niche and reduce the chance of moisture reaching the niche.
As for the niche itself… it sounds like your contractor is planning to install a retrofit niche. Because this niche is designed to be installed after tiling, the silicon bead become the only thing keeping moisture out of the stud wall. In my opinion, all niches should bond with the shower wall waterproofing membrane whether they’re finished stainless steel or prefab tiled. Just to be clear… it’s the type of niche that you have chosen to install that’s likely the problem, not your contractor’s installation strategy.
As far as I am aware, the Redblock niche and the Easy Drain niche are the only stainless steel niches designed to bond with the shower wall waterproofing membrane. Without these options, you’re probably better off installing a regular tiled niche using something like Schluter Kerdi SN. At least with this type of install, you can waterproof the wall recess properly.
Good luck with your project!
Steve
My pleasure!
Steve
Hi Steve, we are in the process of renovating our two bathrooms and are planning to install a shower niche in each.
I was wondering two things:
1) You mention that it’s NOT recommended to install it on an outside wall. In our case, there would be a good 6 inches distance between the shower wall and the rest of the bathroom wall that is facing outside. Does this change things or is the condensation problem still an issue regardless?
2) Our contractor told us he plans to prep the hole for the niche, install the ceramic tiles, then as a last step, apply the niche on top and finish with a bead of silicon to waterproof it. If I understood your guidelines correctly, the niche should be installed first, made 100% waterproof (using membrane) and the ceramic tiles should come after. Not the other way around. Have I got this right?
Thank you for the advice! This will help us get appropriate repairs.
Hi Karen,
Thank you for your comment!
If you have a standard 3 1/2″ stud framing in this outside wall, it’s very likely that there’s a condensation/mold problem behind the niche, regardless how well they waterproofed it. To test this, you can let the shower dry out for a few days and test that back of the niche with a good quality moisture meter. Other than tearing everything out, this is fairly reliable way to find out whether there’s condensation behind the niche.
As for the tile/ tub margin… the best way is always to silicon this margin. Grouting this margin seems like a better idea to the average homeowner (and the novice pro) but this is always a bad idea because the tub and the shower wall assembly expand and contract at different rates so the grout will always crack and break away over time. An expansion/ contraction joint is required here and silicon serves this purpose well.
However, you should pay attention to any cracks that may have occurred within the vertical grout lines above the H tub/tile margin. If there are hairline cracks here (there often are after the grout has broken away beneath) moisture can infiltrate and pool over the silicon bead. This can cause mold to grow here which is not disastrous but it doesn’t look very nice. A good grout sealer will help reduce this problem (Sealers Choice Gold by Custom Building Products).
Good luck!
Steve
Hi, Steve! What a wealth of information! Wish we would have known some of this 5 years ago when we had our bathrooms “professionally” remodeled. There were so many things done that we now realize were probably not done well/correctly. We had a niche installed (3-1/4 inches, 4″ with the listello) in an outside wall of a shower. We live in Missouri so we have hot summers and fairly cold winters. Besides this problem, the angle is terrible and things often slide off the shelf. How can we tell if there is a problem behind this niche? We wish we would have gone with an Onyx shower surround. Also, in the other bathroom, there was no caulk placed between the tub and the tile wall – it was only grouted. Now some of that grout has broken. The company that we are considering for the repairs plans to just caulk over the grout, including the space where the grout has broken out. Maybe this isn’t such a good idea? The bids that we have are from companies that specialize in grout repair.
Hi Kelly,
I think your husband has the right idea.
The safest solution would be a sheet of plate steel behind the entire niche. Most electrical & plumbing codes accept 16 gauge steel (1/16″) for protection plates, so that’s what I would suggest. You can get a piece of galvanized steel cut at any sheet steel supplier or fabricator in your area.
The easiest option would be simply to install your shower niche below 3 feet. The chance of anybody screwing something into the wall below 3 feet are very low. Tenants will usually be hanging a picture or coat hanger; probably nothing below 4 feet in other words.
Good Luck!
Steve.
Hi, Steve.
If installing a shower niche on in interior wall, what do you suggest putting behind it to prevent someone from puncturing it from the other side? We are worried someone might decide to drill through it to hang something on the wall behind. Ideally, extending the stud greater than 4” would have been best, but it is a really small powder room with a closet being converted to a shower and every inch counts. It is a rental property and we could just warn tenants not to hang anything there, but in our experience that usually never ends well. Is there a protector you can buy to install on the back of the niche? My husband thinks we should have a piece of sheet metal cut and installed.
Hi Jamie,
Thank you for your comment!
You definitely need to do something about these problems areas to reduce the chance of moisture getting behind the tile.
Unless there are large areas without any grout, silicon caulking would probably be your best option because it’s very difficult to get new grout to adhere to existing grout, First you should remove the remaining spacers and clean out these areas (and all other voids) as best as you can. Use a grout removal tool to help with this and to remove any loose bits of grout.
After vacuuming out all the dust, you should let the wall dry for a couple of days (a heater blower unit would be great to speed things up) to make sure any moisture trapped behind the tiles dries out.
Seal the grout (and the voids) thoroughly with a grout sealer like Sealer’s Choice Gold. Follow the directions to make sure it dries thoroughly. The sealer is super important to ensure you get a good bond between the old grout and the new caulking.
Then apply silicon caulking (only 100% silicon) to fill the voids.
Good luck!
Steve
Hi I have a new build ( 2 years old). They didn’t fully grout so there was a few missed tile that they just caulked instead of re grouted should I be concerned? They also left some of the spacers in and grouted over them. Also, the door has a quartz lip where the quartz meets the tile and between the tile and quartz there is a hole and can see the water dripping off the bottom. They left it open meaning I can see through from the outside/inside of the shower and when getting down and looking at the quartz/tile junction. Should I be concerned of this as well?
Thanks!
Hi Shawn,
Thank you for your comment!
Your acrylic idea is interesting and it may work, but it would be a bit risky to ask your tile installer to cut and install this material since he/she has probably never handled this kind of material. Acrylic is also super soft. It will scratch and get foggy over time, and I would guess that harsh cleaners like bleach would accelerated this process.
I am not surprised about the $1,200 quote. Some stone fabricators may help you out with a couple of easy cuts, but as soon as it’s perceived as a “job”, they will want to be paid well for it. The safest way to get a good deal on scraps is to buy them as is, and get your tile installer to cut it.
You should also check your local tile store. You should be able to easily find a large format natural stone or quartz composite tile, 3/8″ to 1/2″ thick. And again, your tile installer would probably be happy to cut & polish the edges for your niche.
Have fun with your project!
Steve
Super helpful post! I like the Redblock corner shelf design; especially the fact that it doesn’t interfere with the waterproofing membrane and it’s a bit more transitional design than the Schluter option. One question regarding niche box and shelf components: what about the use of thinner (e.g. 1/2″ thick) acrylic solid surfacing materials? I just got a quote back for 2cm quartz pieces for a custom niche, and it was over $1,200! If a smaller sheet (perhaps remnant) could be purchased of 1/2″ thick solid surfacing material in a color very similar to the shower wall tile, wouldn’t a good tile setter be able to cut that to create the niche box (sides, bottom, top, shelf)? It isn’t going to be quite as stain and scratch-resistant as quartz, but I think it would be safe, waterproof, durable, and easy to clean (potentially even bleach-cleanable). You could still use the wall tile or an accent tile for the back wall of the niche. Thoughts? Concerns?
Hi Mona,
Thank you for your comment, and I’m sorry to hear about your troubles with your niche install.
I would suggest that you get rid of the niche if it’s already causing problems. After a shower wall is tiled, it’s too risky to attempt to repair or re-build a shower niche at this point.
Your best bet it to remove some tile around the niche, open the wall, remove the niche, install some new bracing between the studs, insert insulation to re-fill the niche cavity, then patch the hole with a new piece of backer board (attached to the new bracing).
After the board’s perimeter is patched, taped and sealed, they will need to apply a new piece of waterproofing membrane to cover the patch. Make sure the new membrane overlaps the old one by at least 2 inches. Then tile and grout!
Good luck! I hope the repair works out.
Steve
Hi there,
I have a niche install on an outside wall and now is bad condensation, I have the builders coming back to rectify. But I would be grateful if you could let me know what would be the best way to do this? Both if we wanted to keep the niche? And if we wanted to block it up, what materials ways should this been done to ensure the integrity is restored?
Many thanks
Mona
Hi Lydia,
Thank you for your comment!
If I understand you correctly, you have furred out the wall to create a ledge upon which you will affix a marble shelf. Assuming this is correct, I would suggest that you install the shelf before the tile. The general rule is to install the horizontal finished surfaces in the shower before the vertical. That goes for shower floor and wall tile but also stone shelves and ledges.
Generally speaking, it’s not good to install the vertical tile (or stone) first because water that runs off the vertical tile surfaces could settle at the gap between the floor and wall tile. If the sealant is compromised here, water could recede into gaps with nowhere to drain. If horizontal tiles are installed first, the water would have to move upslope under the wall tile in order to make it to the wall, which is much less likely. This makes it a much safer install.
You should also make sure the shelf is sloped slightly outwards. Your bar soap will probably slip off the shelf, but you don’t want water pooling at the base of the wall tiles regardless of how well you’ve sealed this margin.
Bonus tips: Make sure you seal this shelf with a good grout/stone sealer. Marble can discolor quite easily if not sealed, but you should always keep it clean because sealers are not perfect (nor permanent).
Good luck!
Steve
Hello Steve,
Really good article. In our new shower, we built a knee wall in front of an exterior wall to put a shelf on. My question is about the installation of that shelf. We want to use a single-piece of marble for the shelf. The wall behind is subway tile, and another accent tile to the left. Is it okay (or preferable) to install the shelf itself last, or should we install the shelf prior to tiling the surrounding walls?
Hi Rich,
Thanks for your comment! It’s always great to hear from a fellow contractor.
Yes, I agree that the structure required for a horizontal shower niche is the same as what’s required for a window in an exterior wall.
I think it’s great that you use rigid foam to insulate behind the niche because of its high R value. With 2×6 exterior wall framing, there’s always a bit of room for some insulation behind a typical shower niche install. It becomes a much bigger problem when the wall studs are 2×4.
Cheers,
Steve
I’m a tile contractor. You can absolutely do this as the writer mentions if done correctly. I just did a 52″ linear niche in an exterior 2×4 stud wall cavity. It’s accomplished with framing protocols to comply with your local codes. Frame it like a window! Windows go in exterior walls so you treat your niche framing as you would a window going in. Run a 2×8 or 2×10 header, king stud jack stud, ledger and cripples. Behind the niche you waterproof the exterior wall board with red gard, then a thin later of insulation. All of our cavities we use 3 inches of foamular rigid foam board giving an r value of r15 before tiling. We use hydro ban and laticrete sealant and water proofing. We also ran lighting by philips Hue strips in the niche. It’s a rock solid installation with hydroban vapor and waterproofing barriers. Just remember…FRAME it like a window and waterproof!
Hi Betty,
Although your outside wall may not be subject to the same temperature changes as an exposed outside wall, foundation walls like this can be troublesome because of moisture. No matter how well sealed, every foundation wall will be relatively moist. The amount of moisture in this wall will determine your best move so you should really get a local expert to advise you.
Regardless of the results, I would install another stud wall adjacent to your existing wall and insulate this wall. Depending on the degree of moisture, I may not insulate the existing wall so air can circulate between the shower wall and foundation wall.
I would also suggest installing an extremely good sheet waterproofing membrane. See my waterproofing membrane post for more info.
There is a lot more I could say on this, but I think you get the picture 🙂
Good luck with your shower project!
Steve
These are all so informative!
I am in the midwest (St. Louis) and planning a shower niche in a basement bathroom on an outside wall that is completely underground as well as having a 6′ deep front porch beyond that so there will be no outside air hitting that wall at all. The wall is framed with metal studs and reinforced with wood and there will probably be some air circulation at the tops of the walls above the drywall ceiling into the joist area because the metal studs are not very air tight. The bathroom wall is 5′ long, and once you get past that, you are in an unfinished space next door.
Can you tile right on the concrete wall, use the waterproofing membrane all around and have good results? It will be a single 30″ square niche.
Hi Janine,
It depends a lot on how cold it gets in the garage but even if it doesn’t reach freezing temperature, moisture could still easily condense in the stud cavity. In other words, it’s very difficult to say for certain if it will work out well in the end, but there are ways to dramatically reduce the risk if you really want to build this niche.
The most important part of this project will be your undertile waterproofing. I would suggest that you apply a VERY GOOD sheet waterproofing membrane, not a liquid membrane. You need a membrane with a very low perm rating like the Durock sheet membrane or Wedi Subliner Dry. This will reduce the amount of water vapor entering the wall to the bare minimum.
Installing porcelain tile on the shower wall instead of ceramic with a sealed grout like Mapei Flexcolor CQ, will also greatly reduce vapor transmission into the wall.
Thirdly, I would insulate with spray foam if possible. Foam board is not ideal because it is important to fill the entire cavity behind the niche with insulation (no voids). It would be great if you could fur out that wall to make it a bit thicker. This would allow you to add a bit more insulation behind the niche, but either way you should use spray foam because it has a greater R-value per inch of thickness.
It would also be important for you to remove the vapor retarder plastic sheet in this wall. This sheet will only provide a condensation surface for moisture. Best to get rid of it.
Lastly, I also have to warn you about the risks of installing a long horizontal niche. I suggest that you please re-read that section of my 5BSNIM post so you are aware of the risks, and the additional structure required for this type of installation.
Sorry for all my rambling but this is important stuff…. Good luck with your shower project!
Steve
what about a niche the full length of a 5 foot shower. It is an exterior wall to a garage that is insulated. We are in Chicago which of course gets very cold in winter. Should we still stay away from a large horizontal niche on the wall to the garage or will it be ok using foam board and spray foam behind niche?
Hi Lorenzo,
Thank you for your comment.
I am not too concerned about cutting out 1 wall stud to accommodate your shower niche, as long as the appropriate structure was installed to reinforce the wall and support the niche.
A single porcelain/ ceramic soap dish may not have been considered a significant breach in the original shower wall but a shower niche may be a different story. You would have to check with your local building authority about this.
I would be more concerned with the use of Kerdi Board to replace the 5/8″ drywall of your shower wall. I have never seen any “fire rating” on any foam backer board. I would guess that using Kerdi Board in this situation compromises the firewall. In other words……when the people at UL gave you their opinion, they may have assumed that the tile substrate was fire rated drywall, not foam backer board.
Unfortunately, I’m not really qualified to say what your HOA may do in this situation. I think it would be a good idea to get some kind of written assurance from your tiling contractor that your shower was rebuilt by qualified installers following the industry “best practices”. That may be your best evidence for your HOA in case they have any questions.
I’m sorry that I couldn’t provide you with more reassurance.
Steve
Thank you for the article. We already completed a shower wall niche in our HOA-controlled townhouse in a shared wall. We cut into the firewall, which we’re nervous that the HOA will make us tear out and redo, but every unit has a cheap soapdish insert that penetrates their firewalls anyways. I have consulted experts (Underwriters Laboratories Architectural Division) who say that thinset mortar and porcelain tile is naturally fireproof anyways, so that should meet or exceed the wall’s fire rating. One of the vertical 2×4 studs was cut and framed into a horizontal rectangle to the two adjacent studs, and it did not seem to be load bearing wall, and the framing was properly reinforced. The tile company that did the work used Kerdi-board backing and appropriately waterproofed everything prior to tile-setting. Does this design sound OK? The work doesn’t seem to compromise the structural integrity of the wall (the work all remained on our side of the shared wall), and it seems appropriately fireproofed and waterproofed. Is there anything that you can tell me that might ease my concerns about the HOA wanting to inspect our unit “for any potential damage to shared walls” which they said they have the right to do “from time to time” as written in the CC&R? The work was done by a licensed tile company who does impeccable work. I’m nervous that an HOA Board member without the training nor expertise to judge these things will simply order us to tear it out and rebuild the firewall or something like that. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi James,
Thank you for your comment!
Because the Schluter prefabricated shower niche is made of foam board, I would not recommend pulling the tile. Chances are that you will destroy the niche in the process. That would be a lot worse than pooling water. I know it’s frustrating to see but I think you’re stuck with it unfortunately.
The encouraging thing about prefab foam niches is that it should never leak even if water pools at the base (unless it’s been damaged). Just make sure you seal the grout well so you can more easily clean off any mold and soap scum that may collect.
Cheers,
Steve
Hey there
Thanks so much for the helpful article. My builders have just installed a Schluter prefabricated niche but have forgotten to slope the tile so water is pooling. Is attempting to pull the tile and replace it the best idea?
Hi Joe,
Thank you for your comment!
I think you know what I’m going to say…….. You should not be installing your niche on a 3-1/2″ outside stud wall…… not even in northern California. The temperature variation between inside and outside is large enough to cause condensation behind your niche if any moisture makes it behind your niche. And some moisture will pretty much always make it behind your niche.
If your wife is absolutely against the idea of a shower niche on one of the inside walls, have you considered installing surface mounted shower shelves instead? Schluter makes some very nice ones! Just a thought.
Getting back to your question…… Yes, installing a Schluter foam niche will be better than installing the diy niche you described. It would work better to reduce moisture behind the niche. If you absolutely need to install on the outside wall, you should certainly install a foam niche but I would go one step further and install a SUPER GOOD sheet waterproofing membrane on the entire wall and in the niche as well. I usually discourage the layering of waterproofing products but in this case you need to do all you can to limit moisture transmission.
I don’t really understand how you are going to get a 2″ space behind your niche in a 3-1/2″ stud wall but if your niche was super narrow and the shelf protrudes, I guess you could pull that off. If you can get foam behind it, professionally installed spray foam would be best. Fill the entire wall if possible (or at least the stud cavity) and place the niche into the wet foam). If you can’t do spray foam, a 2″ thick insulating foam sheet can be placed behind it. Just make sure there are no voids at all. No gaps, no cracks…. nothing. I would even buy a can of spray foam so you can spay around it and use it to set the niche into.
Good Luck with your project!
Steve
Great article. So, I’m thinking about installing my niche on an exterior wall- 2×4 studs. Stucco exterior. I live in Northern California (near Sacramento) where temps are 40-102 degrees. Can I get away with installing a shluter niche? Will it help with moisture behind the niche? Or, can I go my original route (diy niche with permabase) and install a longer (depth) niche shelf so my wife’s bigger shampoo bottles will fit BUT also have a 2” cavity behind the niche to apply foam or insulation? If foam is best… what kind of foam? Will that look ugly? Will it work?! I’ve attached photos. My wife had an idea of keeping the longer side wall niche-free for aesthetics. Any suggestions would help me!
https://imgur.com/a/VzM68Wu
Hello again Dona,
Thanks for your comment!
You should keep in mind that the factors that create moisture and mold growth in the shower wall are water vapor, a temperature differential between the outside and inside walls, the amount of insulation, AND a condensation surface (like a plastic vapor barrier, or foil wrap).
The EZ niche is PVC plastic so it has a relatively low permeability but the niche and rest of the wall assembly, will always transmit some moisture into the shower wall.
If you have a 2″x6″ stud wall there will be some room behind the niche. I would suggest that you pack loose insulation around the niche and behind it. Don’t leave any air spaces around the niche or in that particular stud cavity (to eliminate air circulation). I would suggest that you not use the foil wrap. This just introduces a condensation surface into the wall and you don’t want that. Even in a mild climate like San Diego, you can get enough of a temperature differential for moisture to condense in the shower wall if you provide a surface upon which to condense.
Beyond that, you must do everything you can to limit water vapor transmission through the shower wall.
In conclusion…..it would really be best if you installed your niche in an interior wall instead. If it’s not possible, have you considered installing wall mounted shelves? There are some great corner shelves available. Just a thought.
Good Luck!
Steve
Hi Steve
We are doing a shower remodel where the niche will have to go on an external wall, no choice. We will be using a prefab EZ-niche, thank you for the suggestion above of coating it with red guard for substrate adhesion, we wouldn’t have thought about using that since the niche is water proof by design. In regards to the insulation question – we don’t have the option of building a secondary wall so we’re thinking of lining the area where the niche will go with the thin foil bubble wrap type insulation (Reflectix). We live in San Diego so very mild climate and the wall is a north facing wall that is in eternal shade and because it’s on the side of the house closest to the neighboring house it doesn’t even ever get wet. Thoughts? TIA!
Hi Kristen,
Thank you for your comment! I’m super happy that I could provide you with some helpful advice!
Steve
Really appreciate the info on the structural issues with long niches. They had framed one out but not structurally so after reading this and showing this to my contractor we are re-doing a small niche within existing framing to be safe. So you saved us potential issues down the road. Thank you!
Hi Tamara,
Thank you for your comment and Congrats on your new home!
Unfortunately, attempting to remove tiles in the niche or anywhere on the shower wall is a difficult and risky procedure. Chances are that you will damage the waterproofing membrane (if there is one) or damage the backer board (might even be gypsum wallboard). If this happens, you will make things a lot worse than they already are. Because of the poor workmanship that you have noticed with the tiling and niche installation, there is a pretty good chance that your shower niche has been compromised and moisture has already been leaking into the stud wall.
Instead, I would check to see if there is any signs of water infiltration by cutting a hole in the drywall on the other side of the wall that the niche is mounted into. To patch the drywall is pretty easy if you look it up online. If everything looks good behind the niche (no moisture or mold), then I would leave the niche alone until you do a full shower remodel. And if the niche is mounted in an outside wall, this is a whole other ball game. You can read more about this in my waterproofing post.
If there is a problem behind the niche (or the niche is mounted in an outside wall), I would only recommend that you fully remodel your shower so that a waterproofing membrane can be installed with a properly sealed niche box.
If there is no moisture issues behind the niche, you could consider applying new tile over the old tile at the back of the niche. Here is a primer that allows you to do this: https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/media/59976485/mbp_ss129_114.pdf
I know that this is probably not what you wanted to hear (sorry about that), but I wanted you to know what you’re getting into when you mess with an old shower wall.
Steve.
Hello!
Thank you for so many informative articles, your website is very helpful! We recently bought our first home and most of the tiling appears to have not been done well. I think we will eventually be replacing all the tile because of this, but right now my biggest concern is the tile niche in our guest bathroom. It is poorly installed, crooked, the tile is ugly, and the caulking/grouting is very messy. Plainly, it looks really bad and we would like to remove and retile the back of the niche.
The shower is tiled in plain white subway tiles and this is what is bordering the niche. We don’t mind these. The back of the niche tile is what we would like to remove, the sides and border tiles are fine. I can’t seem to find any information about removing and replacing tiles in a shower niche though, so I’m just not sure how to go about this. Do you have any suggestions?
Thank you again,
Tamara
Hi Jennifer,
Thank you for your comment.
The beginning of your comment is a bit cryptic but I think I understand what you are asking. I am assuming that at least one of your shower walls is a brick wall, and this is the wall where your want your shower niche to be installed.
If the shower wall is brick, it is likely an outside wall. Even if it is not, I would still suggest the same solution (below).
An outside facing shower wall no matter how it’s constructed, needs to be insulated adequately. That means that between the brick wall and the tiled shower wall, there needs to be an adequate amount of space filled with insulation, to prevent moisture from condensing in the wall. There also needs to be an adequate waterproofing membrane beneath the tile layer to limit moisture transmission into this wall.
The only safe way to do this is to build a new wall adjacent to the brick wall. You can then insulate this wall and install your shower niche into it. You still must allow enough wall thickness to be able to insulate behind the shower niche as well, especially if it’s a tiled shower niche. You can find more details in my Shower Niche Install Mistakes post.
Good luck with your niche install, and let me know if you need anymore info!
Steve
Hi Steve,
Thanks for your article. We are upgrading a bathroom on a bungalow we both. All brick wall. No tiler we asked will put in a niche into the shower. They said its too difficult to do . Do you have any advice or suggestions please?
Thanks
Jennifer
Hi Ashley,
Thank you for your comment.
I’m assuming that the edges of the tile are exposed around the perimeter of the shower niche…. not a great look.
I’m sorry to say that it would be extremely difficult to add tile edge trim around the niche perimeter after the shower wall and niche are already tiled. The problem is that most trims have a flange or “anchoring leg” that’s designed to be placed into the mortar beneath the edge tile.
It is possible to find a trim with no anchoring leg but that would mean that the tile would have to be cut away at the corner to make room for this trim piece. This would be a VERY difficult procedure even for the most skilled tile installer, and it would really only be possible with ceramic tile. The trim is called Quadec by Schluter Systems.
Sorry I couldn’t come up with an easier solution. And please let me know if you have anymore questions.
Steve.
Hi Steve
Our contractor installed a shower niche and tiled the wall and niche however my husband doesn’t like the finished product as there is. I trim around it Is it too late to add some type of trim now ?
Hi Phil,
Thank you for your comment.
I don’t see any problem with this other than the fact that you must construct your own custom niche box to acheive the unique height and depth (rather than using a preformed niche). The extra 2″ cantilever shouldn’t be a problem as long as it’s supported fully underneath.
Because standard wood and metal framing materials are not great to use in niche construction, might I suggest that you instead construct it out of Kerdi Board or some other brand of foam board? I would use the 5/8″ or 3/4″ thickness for extra structural stability, cut to size and glued together with a polyurethane sealant like Dap polyurethane sealant. Just make sure that you use 1/2″ foam board for the perimeter mounting flange since it needs to be mounted flush with your 1/2″ shower tile backer board.
Although this niche should be totally waterproof, I would also suggest that you apply a good quality waterproofing membrane to the interior of the niche when you’re waterproofing the shower wall, just to be safe.
Good luck and have fun!
Steve.
Hi Steve,
I am remodeling my master bath down to the studs. The long shower wall backs a walk in closet. I’m considering building a 24 x 24″ niche, 6″ deep (by pushing into the closet. I asked the clothes if they mind, they don’t care). The outcropping will be cantilevered from the studs so I will take extra care supporting it.
Do you see any problem doing this?
Hi David,
Thank you for your comment. Sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner.
I am not a big fan of most PVC (plastic) tilable shower niches. I have chosen to avoid the uncoated plastic niches in my installations simply because of the mortar bonding problems they seem to have. If the mortar contains enough polymer adhesive, I guess it could stick reliably to the plastic surface, but as an installer I would never take this risk. The only way I would install the EZ Niche or the Redi Niche is if a liquid waterproofing membrane (like RedGard) was first applied to its surface. The Durock Shower Niche is the only plastic niche that I would ever recommend because it has a coating applied to its surface to facilitate mortar bonding. I have installed this niche a few times and it seems like a solid product.
Good Luck!
Steve
What do you think about EZ niche?
What do you think about ez niche? Do you tile directly on these?
Hi Michelle,
Thank you for your comment.
Yes, our stainless steel recessed shower niches can be finished with any type of shower panel or shower board. The “tiling” flange that surrounds the niche, is designed to extend out from the mounting surface a full 1/2″ so that you can surround the niche with tile as thick as 3/8″, but you can also surround the niche with an acrylic, stone, or glass shower panel if you like. The only difference is that if you install a thinner panel like the acrylic type, the perimeter flange will protrude a little from the finished acrylic wall surface. You should keep in mind that the niche must be attached to the shower wall before the acrylic/glass/stone panel is installed so that it can overlap the mounting flange (M-block flange) and bond to it via a sealant. You can refer to our mounting directions to get more details if you like, or you can email me at [email protected]
Steve
Hello,
Can these Niche shower box’s be finished with shower boards as oppose to tilling?
Thank you
Thanks Jay. It’s great to hear that people like yourself are getting some useful info from my posts.
Steve
Wow! Great article and through responses to questions.
Hi Brad,
I would have to agree with you. It could certainly cause a problem in the long run even if you have a waterproofing membrane beneath the tile. If there is no membrane, it could already be a problem. The only thing you can do to fix it is to try to gently pry off the base tiles and re-attach them with a proper slope. I would only try this if you DO NOT have a waterproofing membrane beneath your tile. If there is a membrane, you will likely destroy it and this would be worse than leaving as is. It will also be difficult to get these tiles off without breaking them so you need some spares that you can use as replacements.
Good Luck!
Steve
Hi,
Recently my bathroom was remodeled with a niche installed. The bottom tiles of the niche slope back towards the wall resulting in a lot of water building up to almost 3mm in depth against the back of the niche. They say it is not a problem but I disagree. What do you suggest?
Hi Daphne,
I am hoping that there is at least a framed box in the stud cavity behind the wall so there’s a solid surface to apply this tile……. You know that this box should also be waterproofed correctly to prevent water from getting into your wall. It could be quite disastrous if he does not do this correctly. Maybe you should read over my Shower waterproofing post to find out more about waterproofing a shower niche. You can also check out my Shower Niche Guide if you’d like to see an example of a “tiled niche” and the tile edge trim that your contractor was likely referring to. I might also suggest that you get another contractor in for a second opinion about the work. To be frank, it sounds like this guy doesn’t know what he’s doing.
Good Luck!
Steve
Hi!
you guessed right….at this point the niche is useless unless we re-do everything. My contractor is suggesting that we simply put the tiles in the hole that has already been made (with enough slant to make the water run down but also not too slanted so my bottles can’t stay on it) and add a sort of aluminum transition trim (not sure that is the correct word but what we would see on the floor usually but a thicker one around the tiles). I speak english and french so translating it directly I believe he said an L-angle edging trim ? I did a bit more research and I have seen some people do it this way (I guess the old fashion way??) . Thanks Steve for taking the time to reply !
Hi Daphne,
Thank you for your comment.
Wow! I’m not really sure what to say about this one.
I looked at the niche in the link you provided. You are correct that it is designed to be a tile ready niche, not a finished niche. If I’m understanding your situation correctly, there are a few problems with this installation, needless to say.
Firstly…… As you can see by the screw holes around its perimeter, this niche is designed to be screwed into framing members that your contractor should have installed prior to installing the tile backer board (the board that the tiles are attached to). If there is no exposed framing that you can see to attach the niche on 3 sides, it will be impossible to install this niche correctly at this stage.
In a normal installation, the tile backer board is installed with a hole just large enough to allow the entire niche to be screwed directly to the framing installed earlier. Its mounting flange would then be flush with the backer board surface with a slight gap around which would be sealed and waterproofing membrane installed. The membrane would cover the niche mounting flange so no screws were visible. The shower wall tiles would then be installed.
I’m assuming from your description that your contractor did not do this, but if he installed the back framing I described above, the niche could still be attached, the gap sealed, and a strip of waterproofing membrane applied. This would be relatively safe but not ideal. This would also assume that the wall tile could still be continued seamlessly around the niche and into its interior.
If my above assumptions above are incorrect, I’m sorry to say there may be no good solutions to this problem other than starting over and doing it correctly.
Although not a great solution, your only other choice might be to install a retrofit niche with and overlap flange (as long as the whole is exactly the right size, that is).
Let me know if you need more clarification or if you’d like to give me more details for further assessment.
Steve.
Hi! my contractor just bought a shower niche (link below) and wanted to leave it as is. I find it looks really cheap and asked him if we can find another solution. The problem is that the hole is there ready for the niche but all the tiles have been put down already around it.
He is now suggesting to just put tiles in the open space if I don’t like the box I linked below….Is there anything to keep in mind? The box he bought is usually made to tile over (based on research I just did) afterwards. Now I have to sort of find a box that can be inserted inside and have a bit if a lip all round or do as mentioned before, cover in ceramic….
https://www.rona.ca/en/double-shower-niche-16-x-20-white-65595330?viewStore=41450&cm_mmc=-_-1697454409-_-65797565026-_-pla-789828216667&gclid=CjwKCAjw4NrpBRBsEiwAUcLcDAruYjqrXkjrAeHtFSlvPDKOxDTXp7kFtnt49WGO_GIerPjBFBflfxoCYe0QAvD_BwE
Hi John,
Thank you for your comment.
I am not sure I understand exactly what you are describing, but it sounds like your contractor is creating a waterproof recess out of hydroban board to accommodate the niche. This is what I am assuming.
Regardless, it’s difficult to predict what will happen if it’s installed over the membrane before the wall is tiled. The problem is that there is still only one layer of adhesive that keeps water from getting behind the niche regardless when it’s mounted. Even if the wall cavity that contains the niche is completely waterproofed, water may still get behind it with a single retrofit flange. If this happens, it could eventually cause mold growth or tile delamination even if water doesn’t get into the wall cavity.
Maybe I am not understanding your situation correctly, but if you wanted a finished niche and you want it to be completely waterproof, I’m just wondering why you didn’t purchase one that’s designed to integrate with the waterproofing membrane. That would make things a lot easier.
If I’m misunderstanding you, please provide some more info so I can make a better assessment.
Steve
The niche that my contractor purchased is a retrofit model. It will be on an inside wall. We will be using Laticrete Hydroban board to waterproof the shower including the niche cavity. If we leave 1/4″ spacing (1/8″ around) to thinset around the niche cavity to install over the waterproofing membrane, do you feel that will be sufficient?
Hi Feldhaus,
Thanks for your comment.
You didn’t mention how much of your 64″ wall will be occupied by the proposed horizontal niche, but as long as there is room for a narrow stud bay on each side of the header (around 6″- 10″ each side), you should be OK. This of course assumes that you will be adequately fortifying the structure in this wall.
The removal of studs in a non bearing wall really just increases the flexibility of the wall. This extra flexibility can be limited by installing a structural header over top of the niche opening. A steel beam would be great, but it’s not really necessary. A standard 8″ wood header would do the job as long as it’s assembled and installed properly.
The more accurately the new header, jack, king and cripple studs are cut and attached, the less flexible this wall will be. Using construction adhesive in the joints around the header and installing blocking between the remaining stud bays, will also significantly increase the wall’s rigidity.
Good luck with your project!
Steve
Steve, great article! We are currently in a remodel and was thinking of this horizontal niche with a light in the top corner. The contractor brought up some of the issues with this in various projects. We have a bathroom that is 64″ wide, do you think that is too large to do a Horizontal Niche in the current wall? I was even thining if it was perhaps we could use small steel beams to support the weight. Its a non-load bearing wall but there is a floor above, I found your article great as it talked about considering other issues, not just weight from above.
Hi Jessica,
Thank you for your comment!
I would recommend that the entire perimeter mounting flange of the niche be supported by backing, and that the niche be attached to the backing on all 4 sides. All these foam and plastic niches can distort if not fully supported.
When it comes to tiling substrates, it is always better to take this approach because you do not want this assembly to flex or your grout lines will eventually crack.
Good Luck with your project!
Steve
Hi Steve! Is it absolutely necessary to put a cross beam (blocking) where a pre-fab niche would go? I can’t find anything online about it being necessary but the man at the tile store that sold me the niche suggested it. Thanks for your help!
Hi Mikal,
Thanks for your comment!
You are correct to be concerned about installing your shower niche in an outside wall unless there is at least 3″ of insulation space behind the niche.
If I’m understanding you correctly, it is a very typical alcove style shower with a 6′ back wall (outside wall) and two 4’6″ side walls, one of which is the valve wall.
My suggestion would simply be to install a tall vertical niche (with shelves) on the wall opposite the valve wall. You say that you’re hesitant to do this, but it is the most common place to install a standard shower niche (other than horizontal). It is the area one would usually step into to wash themselves, away from the water stream. As such it’s very convenient to install the niche in this area because it’s in easy reach.
Also, being a full 5.5′ away from the shower head, it is basically the driest part of your shower. Even if water does end up in the niche, you shouldn’t be concerned as long as you trust your contractor to construct and waterproof it correctly. Here is a link to my shower waterproofing post if you would like to read more on the topic.
And please let me know if you need more help, and good luck with your project!
Steve.
I am currently working with a contractor on my shower remodel. We are doing an accessible shower for my son but the bathroom will also be used by guests who come to visit. We were initially looking at doing a horizontal niche but it is an exterior wall. We live in the Seattle area and so now I’m thinking this is not our best option. We were wanting the most storage possible for our items we use for our son as well as for our guests to put their items in there as well. The shower will be 4’ 6” x 6’, with the 6’ wall being the exterior wall. We are having a shower head with diverted valve for a separate shower wand installed which is limiting the location of the niche on the wall with the shower head and I am not a fan of placing the niche along the back wall in direct line of the shower spray. Any ideas on how this might work best?
Hello again Christie,
Thank you for commenting!
The fact that you live in Florida does make “the outside wall problem” a little less of a problem than if you were living in an area that experiences more extreme temperature fluctuations seasonally. The issue is really all about the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors. As far as I can tell, your part of Florida experiences temp’s from the 40’s (F) to the 90’s (F) so there is enough of a temp variation to create a condensation problem behind the niche (if it was mounted in an outside wall with inadequate insulation behind it). But it really has to do with the thickness of your outside wall. If your outside wall studs are 2″x6″ construction, I believe it may be possible, especially if the wall was sprayed with polyurethane foam insulation (best R-value per inch and awesome vapour control). To be sure, you really should consult a local contractor familiar with the insulation and vapour control requirements in your area. In other words, there is a good chance that it may be possible.
Otherwise, you can place your shower niches wherever you want. You can place them beside each other horizontally or vertically on the back wall. The only thing I would suggest is that you keep them out of the “splash zone” just because it’s more convenient to access when you are showering. Why not just mount them directly adjacent to where you were planning to mount them (vertical mounting on the back wall, a few inches from the corner)? Many clients tell me that they like the asymmetrical look and it’s very convenient to access. With the high volume of users in this particular shower, practicality should really be your highest priority in my opinion.
Good luck with your project!
Steve
Steve, I originally planned to put two of the N1014 stainless niches stacked vertically a few inches apart on the rear wall of a tub shower combo (opposite the shower head). This bathroom serves a bunk room that sleeps 8, hence wanting more storage.
However, I just realized that is an exterior wall in our bay front home in Florida. 🙁 So now I’m contemplating what to do. What about horizontal placement in the long wall?Vertical placement on the long wall? I’d love if there are pictures to see the different options.